• KIHEI AND MOLOKINI

Twenty years ago the Kihei-to-Wailea (view map) coastline was little more than a scrubby “Kiawe” jungle afoot Mt. Haleakala. Today, it is Maui’s fastest-growing resort and residential community boasting fine shopping centers, scores of condominiums and several new luxury hotels.

Beautiful beaches stretch for miles along Kihei Road from Ma‘alaea Harbor to Makena. Every few hundred yards verdant lawns creep to the beach’s edge, making a dip in the warm ocean only seconds away. This part of Maui is dry and sunny, receiving less than ten inches of rainfall annually, perfect for seasonal visitors escaping the cold.

For a direct route to Wailea take the Pi‘ilani Highway (31), which offers scenic views of West Maui, Lana‘i, the uninhabited island of Kaho‘olawe and the volcanic islet of Molokini–one of Maui’s most breathtaking snorkeling spots.

Snorkeling cruises depart for Molokini (photo below) from Ma‘alaea, Kihei boat ramp and Lahaina Harbors, usually in the morning. Many fish at Molokini are tame and the protective arms of the sunken crater rim assure calm waters for novice snorkelors.

At the entrance to Kihei is Kealia Beach Plaza, where you can join one of those popular Molokini cruises. Down South Kihei Road, Azeka Place is the home of their famous ribs, and you can treat yourself to some heat-beating ice cream. Kihei Town Center offers a convenient 24-hour supermarket, an excellent steak house and a good place to pick up sandwiches and fresh fruit smoothies. And Rainbow Mall is a cross-section of stores ranging from video rentals and camera shops to boutiques and restaurants.

On weekends and holidays the Kama‘ole Beach Parks are populated with local residents and are actually three separate sandy beaches with their own picnic tables, showers and changing rooms.

At the end of the road is the massive lava flow that in 1790 formed La Perouse Bay, now an official sanctuary for over 90 species of exotic reef fish. Looking out over the cobalt waters, past Molokini, is the looming shape of Kaho‘olawe. For the last 40 years Kaho‘olawe was used as a bombing range by the military, but the island was recently returned to Hawai‘i by the Bush Administration.