• HALEAKALA

Maui is an island of many contrasts. At sea level the scenery is typical of the sub-tropics; white sand beaches, coconut palms and lush foliage. But take a drive “Upcountry” on the way to Maui’s dormant volcano “Haleakala” and you'll find another world.

You can drive to the crater through Pukalani (which has an excellent golf course) or the rustic cowboy town of Makawao, site of the famous Makawao Rodeo. This small historic town, best known for its cowboys, is now blessed by a renaissance of art galleries,small boutiques and fine eateries. Here Maui lifestyles intersect. Volvos park next to monster pickups and old Volkswagens sporting bumper stickers like, “Question Reality” and “Magic Happens.” It’s the yuppie-paniolo-new-age kaleidoscope that makes a visit to Makawao an interesting contrast to shopping malls and beach resorts.

Route 377 passes through the beautiful district of Kula, at 3000 feet on the grassy slopes of Mt. Haleakala. To see the variety of Hawai‘i’s plant life, visit the Kula Botanical Garden’s uniquely landscaped natural environment, three miles past the crater turnoff on Route 377. The climate here is cooler, with mists swirling in the valleys and groves Eucalyptus sheltering pastures full of cattle. Kula is the habitat of the exotic Protea flower and several farms grow acres of the many different varieties that are shipped all over the world.

Carnations, sweet Kula onions and Maui grapes thrive in Upcountry’s ideally-balanced climate. A vineyard on Maui? It may come as quite a surprise, but award-winning wine is being produced right here in the land of mangoes and mai tais. Maui’s only commercial winery, Tedeschi Vineyards, is located at a cool 2,000-feet above sea level, amid the 20,000-acre Ulupalakua Ranch. Near the cottage where King Kalakaua often stayed, is the winery’s newly expanded tasting room. And a new museum-like History Room brings alive the fascinating stories of the ranch, once Maui’s showplace, famed for its hospitality as well as its agricultural prowess.

The journey to Haleakala’s summit travels the only road in the world that in just 38 miles takes you from sea level up to 10,023-feet. The switchback road (Route 378) attracts bicycle enthusiasts from all over the world. But you don’t have to be a Tour de France rider to enjoy the exhilarating downhill cruise. Bicycle tour companies provide bikes specially equipped with oversize brakes and all necessary safety gear, either on escorted tours or self-guided trips where you ride at your own pace.

A 90-minute drive from Kahului, just past the Park entrance, is Hosmer Grove campground and picnic area. Park Headquarters are at 7,030-feet, a mile past the entrance. Here, maps and information can be obtained before proceeding to the summit. On the way down, Kalahuku Overlook offers dramatic views and a chance to see the famous Silversword plant. This botanical masterpiece, found only in Haleakala, blooms once in its lifetime and can reach up to nine feet in height.

At 9,745-feet you will find the Haleakala Visitor Center where the crater’s geological evolution is explained in models and illustrations. From this vantage point study the amazing landscape below. In the distance windswept peaks tower above Ko‘olau Gap and Kaupo.

At the summit Pu‘u ‘Ula‘ula Visitor Center offers a spectacular 360-degree panorama of West Maui, the Big Island, Lana‘i, Moloka‘i and O‘ahu in the distance. A mile further up is Science City with its domes and antennae for communications and space study. You can see why they would build observatories here. Standing at over 10,000 feet above the clouds right in the middle of the vast Pacific is an inspiring experience sure to make you feel “on top of the world.” Haleakala can be cold. Whenever you choose to visit the Crater it is advisable to call (808) 572-7749 for a taped report on weather and general conditions. For Ranger-led hikes and talks, check park bulletin boards or call (808) 572-7749.